(...Continued from day one and two) From the Paquime site, we rejoined CHI 10 en route to San Buenaventura. It is important not to take the toll road at La Curva, as this bypasses CHI 28. CHI 28 is beautiful; the open agricultural plains fade away as the road climbs towards the Village of Gomez Farias and the Tres Picos (Three Peaks). The road is exceptionally narrow in places, requiring trucks and cars to wait for uphill traffic to make the tight switchbacks. The guard rails left evidence of those who tempted fate before us.
We continued south gaining and loosing elevation along this winding road. Few cars pass us, as this route is reserved for the few towns that dot its distance and the "touristas" in search of "cascadas" and "barrancas".
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An old rock wall along the route to Madera
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The drive out of Babicora to Madera climbs steeply, cresting at nearly 8,000 feet before descending to the rich agricultural plains of La Junta (Lopez Mateos). Madera is famous for its large cliff dwellings and diverse fauna. Our trip schedule required us to continue south, leaving Madera for another time. La Junta is a major confluence of highways with several roads intersecting in that area, including a ten kilometer section of four lane freeway. These new roads always challenge the ability to navigate, but we faired well and were soon past CHI 16, 10 and a few others on our track towards Creel, the gateway to Copper Canyon!
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Mexico Travel Tip |
Navigation is always a challenge in Mexico, as signs are frequently incorrect or nonexistent. If you pass a road without a sign, all ways look in your side view mirror while driving past. In our experience, there are often signs available from the other direction of traffic.
And never underestimate local knowledge. I would prefer to ask a local for directions than to trust most of the available maps. If anything, a local can help to confirm if you are on the right route! |
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Within minutes of leaving CHI 16 the temperature began to drop precipitously, and we were soon driving through rain and sleet. It is 90 kilometers from CHI 16 to Creel, but it took us nearly two hours to make the drive. The road was wet from the rain, adding further caution to our already slowed progress. the tight mountain curves and steep climbs kept the trucks in low gears, often in first and second during the downhill's. This area is exceptionally beautiful, with tall, healthy pine trees encroaching on the road, and the smoothed peaks pushing this ancient, volcanic range skyward.
We dropped down from the road onto the Streets of Creel just as the sun began to set, casting a shadow on this much anticipated arrival... |
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Creel |
Creel is one of those places that struggles between it's past and the future opportunities that now shape it. The draw of the Sierra Madre brings thousands of visitors each year to this mountain town, providing the pavement bound travelers with a glimpse of the Tarahumaran people and their culture. The streets of Creel speak of their age as modern vehicles attempt to navigate the narrow passageways, originally built for horses and carts.
Shops abound, catering to the desires of those looking for local trinkets, clothing, equipment and even internet access. We passed through the square quickly, in search of our camping area for the evening at "Villa Mexicana at Copper Canyon". Doron and I decided to rent one of their cabins at the behest of our families, though the thought of a warm and dry place to sleep was not lost on us either.
Villa Mexicana is a very nice place to stay, but it is prudent to make reservations early and have a price confirmation, as they were quite opportunistic of the weathers effects on our sleeping arrangements. Despite the cost, we slept soundly, and woke early to make the drive into town.
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Creel has a large open square (as do most with colonial influence), with a long street heading south filled with shops. The tourists here seemed much hardier than most, with a comfortable walk and way about them. It was apparent that our group was not the only in search of a little adventure.
Tarahumaran walked the streets, adorned in vivid garb, layered from top to toe in primary colors, with bright patterns and festive prints. We found a woman and her grandchild selling a few items in the square, and paid them asking price for the few things we liked. The center of towns in Mexico is also the best place to find information. We were directed to the "Three Amigos", who proved to be exceptional resources. They have an inventory of maps and road logs available, as well as vehicle rentals to Batopilas (and other destinations). The three amigos shop is a hub of information and travelers, with information and road condition information exchanged freely. Despite my attempts to pay them for their time and information, they would not accept. They also speak excellent english, which is a major advantage when attempting to articulate a difficult concept. When I told them where we were going their eyes opened wide, followed by smiles and several questions. I could see the concerns in their faces as we left their shop. Their countenance furthered my desire to drive into the canyons, whatever we may find. |
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A hero and a fool are only separated by the result... |
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Day Three's Contact Information |
Villa Mexicana
Calle Adolfo Lopez Mateos S/N
Creel, Chihuahua, MEX 32000
From US: 011 52 (635) 456 0666
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