Exploring Central Arizona
Photos and text by Scott Brady

Arizona, the Wild West, with ghost towns, saloons, old mines and open spaces. During our three day adventure we found all of the above, and some great 4wd action along the way. Our group of ten vehicles had just participated in the first annual Expedition Trophy (www.expeditiontrophy.com), and had made time to explore the New River and Bradshaw mountains, covering over 100 off-highway miles in the process.

Our adventure began at the Bloody Basin turnoff from I17, and a short climb to the east onto the Perry Mesa. The road is wide and graded, allowing the group to make good time to the Tonto National Forest. From Bloody Basin Road we took a quick detour to an old Hohokam Indian Pueblo Site, situated on the edge of Silver Creek Canyon. While the ruins are a nice find, it was the view from the location that was most impressive. The strategic positioning of their dwelling provided commanding views to the north and Copper Mountain.

While the Bloody Basin Road provides excellent views and the sense of exploration, it is its access to remote and challenging terrain that creates the greatest appeal. Several challenging trails head to the north, including FR44 and FR18, which require low range and good clearance. The group was ready for a challenge, so we left the improved surface and headed into the heavily eroded washes and decomposed granite hills of Mesa Butte. FR44 is a 2.5 rated trail, favoring a flexible suspension and lower center of gravity. The area had been ravaged by fire and then flooding, which created deep cross axle holes, washouts and severely cambered traverses.

The Expeditions West 2004 Tacoma is outfitted with ARB bumper and locker, BFG 255/85 R16 tires, Eezi-Awn Roof tent and the excellent Donahoe/Deaver suspension combo.

Chuck, our resident Biologist examines a male tarantula. The fall is their mating season, so the males are very active and can often be seen crossing the trail. Though usually harmless, they should be treated with caution.

As the trail left Copper Creek Wash and turned NE we came across our first major obstacle, a 25 degree cambered traverse. The drivers of the taller trucks used additional caution, progressing slowly across the shelf to minimize any shift in stability. Even the tall FJ40 with an Autohome roof tent did well, and each truck passed without issue. The trail climbs to a saddle, with little challenge except for the close brush. The hilltop seemed otherworldly, with the blackened and leafless trees standing among the hollowed shells of cactus. But new life was blooming, the recent rains driving tall grass up the watersheds and covering the southern slopes. Small groups of wildflowers provided contrasts of purple and yellow against the blond rye.

The trail turns east at the base of Goat Peak and drops quickly into Bishop Creek, with a series of challenging descents. An optional spur is heavily eroded and tilts the passenger toward a six foot drop. Despite the short wheelbase, Brian did a great job moving his modified Wrangler through the rut, allowing the Jeeps excellent articulation to keep the tires firmly planted. Several others tried the challenge without issue and we made quick time to the stock tanks and windmills at the canyon bottom.

The trail became easier on its route back to Bloody Basin road, but a few wash-outs tested the break over of the longer Tacomas. A series of narrow, rutted climbs provided a few wheel lifts and spinning tires as the open differential trucks searched for traction. Fortunately, the trail took us back into an unburned area near Wright Cabin, with huge oak and sycamore trees lining the track. After six miles, our detour on FR44 ended, only wetting my companion’s appetite for more adventure.

That evening, we made camp overlooking lime Creek on a huge rock outcropping. Surrounded by stone spires and a deep erosion trench, the location was perfect. The campfire and talk of adventure burned on into the night.

Morning promised new adventure and different terrain. The days trail would be FR41, which leaves FR24 into the curiously named Magazine Springs. The area is a beautiful, healthy section of Sonoran Desert with thick, tall Saguaro and dense stands of Mesquite. We engaged 4-lo and were soon enjoying Off-Road Magazine Spring (sic). The trail begins with little challenge, but the sweeping views occupy the driver and provide a reward for all of the miles traveled. Several water crossings were encountered as the group dropped into New River Canyon. The water crossings were taken with caution due to the submerged boulders and poor traction. Several optional climbs kept the more adventurous drivers entertained and allowed the less inclined members of the group to document their efforts. Soon the trail was over, terminating at a ranch and a short drive to I17.

The last section of our journey was a 60 mile trek into the Bradshaw Mountains. While not particularly challenging, the history and scenery is incredible. Anyone with a stock 4wd and a little sense of exploration can wander through these mountains for years. The route begins at the Bumblebee turnoff of I17 and winds NW into the old mining town of Cleater. From Cleater, the dirt road begins climbing in earnest, gaining 2,000 feet in a few miles, with a series of switchbacks terminating at nearly 6,000 feet and Poland Vista. From there, it is a short drive to the dusty little town of Crown King. What Crown King lacks in size and amenity, it makes up for in style and character. A one pump gas station also serves as the market and mail room, and the original bar and brothel is still in operation. Well at least the bar is still in operation, and you can stay in one of the 100 year old “rooms” upstairs. You can’t leave town without pulling up to the century old wooden bar and ordering a Crown King Ale. A surly glare from one of the hardy locals makes it all worth it. We made camp just outside of town, and settled into more talk of lockers, suspensions and the merits of a fridge to keep a layer of ice on your favorite brew.

The route across Bloody Basin is wide and graded, but no less impressive. Expansive views reward those who travel its length.

Robb’s 1994 FZJ80 is a killer expedition rig, with over 60 gallons of fuel on board, Engel fridge, ARB front and Kaymar rear bumpers.

The morning air was crisp at 6,500 feet as we packed up camp and made the short trip back into town for a few supplies. Our little expedition would take the group further north, along the old Senator Highway. Fortunately, the route is nothing of a highway and within a few miles of Crown King turns to an unimproved trail. The track stays high along the hillsides and mesas, allowing for excellent views in all directions. Deep, rugged valleys drop off from the trails edge, with large stands of pine and old growth forest carpeting the horizon. The Senator highway is also the location of Palace Station, the midway point of the route, which provided shelter and supplies to the stage coaches. The station is still in great shape and is used as a living quarters for the Forest Service.

Due to the remoteness of the trail, the area was rich with wildlife; supporting deer, black bear and several species of Birds of Prey. The trail surface starts to degrade slightly after entering Spence Creek, where granite and limestone makes up the tracks surface. Mines with the name Alligator, Mount Union and Starlight dot the side of Yankee Doodle Peak, and speaks to this routes importance in the areas development.
After crossing the headwaters of the Hassayampa River the trail improves, becoming graded, with cabins and homes indicating the arrival of civilization.

We hit pavement just south of the historic district in Prescott, which seems a fitting end to this great adventure. Arizona rewards the remote traveler with some of the greatest terrain diversity in the country. We traveled through Sonoran desert and high plains, ending in the mountain forests. With a tank of fuel and some camping gear, a basic 4wd can transport you and your family to the most amazing places: so get out, and explore the road less traveled.

GPS Coordinates (Datum: WGS84)

Bloody Basin Turn-off: N34 16.971 W112 07.146
North turn to Pueblo (out and back): N34 14.133 W112 01.762
North turn to FR44: N34 12.655 W111 57.005
End FR44: N34 12.727 W111 53.997
South turn to FR24: N34 09.338 W111 49.306
Lime Creek Camp: N34 06.379 W111 51.040
West turn to FR41: N34 00.553 W111 52.736
End FR41: N33 58.184 W112 07.629
Start Crown King Route: N34 08.215 W112 08.803
Crown King: N34 12.335 W112 20.318
North turn onto Senator Highway: N34 12.335 W112 21.893
End Senator Highway, Prescott: N34 32.507 W112 27.796