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Rio Urique, Mexico
Safari Snorkel

ARB 4x4 Accessories
20 South Spokane Street
Seattle WA 98134
Tel: (206) 264 1669

Vehicle: Expeditions West: 2004 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab TRD

Retail Price of $427.01
Part Number SS170HF
* Pricing subject to change, contact vendor

Weight :

12 lbs

Installation Difficulty | Time required Moderate | about three hours
Specialty tools required 83mm Hole Saw (I used a 3 1/4")
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Raised Air Intake for Expedition Travel

Cleaner Air:
A properly engineered raised air intake system is a critical component of outfitting a vehicle for expedition travel; though it's most significant merit is not its most commonly perceived intent. Living in the southwest and traveling along miles of dusty tracks has shown me the benefits of raising the air intake high above the road surface, where the majority of the heavier dust concentration collects. When dust and dirt is stirred by the foregoing vehicle, the particles will separate by their specific gravity, with the majority settling several feet above the ground and lower. Though the dust generated by a fast moving vehicle can reach significant height, the greatest volume of particulates will have only reached an elevation of a few feet above the road surface, which is where the raised intake benefits.

Note on fitting a cyclone (donaldson type) filter: It is typical for a raised air intake used on stationary equipment and slow moving implements to be fitted with a cyclone type pre cleaner. These units are very effective when stationary or at slow speeds (below 40kph), but are useless at higher velocities as the suction created at the higher travel rates disturbs the cyclone effect. the units also must be quite large to allow sufficient airflow to the engine and cannot be used at highway speeds (80 kph and higher) without damage or loss. The pre cleaner has little use in real world trekking where high road speeds are often encountered.

As expected, the raised air intake is a requirement for deep water fording. Many SUV's can begin ingesting water at even bumper height crossings. Water does not compress as air does, and even a small amount of water sucked into the engine can lead to valvetrain damage. When properly fitted and sealed, the raised air intake will draw air from near roof height, well above a typical crossing.

Other Considerations When Fording: Raising the air intake is just one component of deep water fording. When fitted to a gasoline engine it is necessary to ensure the high voltage ignition system is also capable of attaining the same depth. Some of the better designed gas motors now use distributorless ignitions, which are actually well sealed. The Trooper, UZJ100 and Tacoma (as do others) all use a coil on plug design which is far superior to a distributor. Special attention must also be placed on differential and gearbox breathers, taking those lines to the highest point in the engine (or even tapped into the snorkel system). Never attempt to cross water that is over hood height, and avoid crossing fast moving sources exceeding the vehicles tire height.

This video is the best available demonstrating the effectiveness of a snorkel in deep water: Trooper River Crossing 11mb (Video will download from safarisnorkel.com)

Snorkel's in use on Expeditions West Adventures

Video 1 | 2 | 3

Watch Video 3.2mb

Picture 2 | 3
1999-2005 UZJ 100
Land Cruiser
Part Number ss85hf
1991-1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ
4.0l 6cyl SS1000HF
1992-1997 FJ80 and FZJ80
Land Cruiser
1zfe 6cyl SS81HF
1999-2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ
Navara SS720HF

Drawing courtesy of Safari Snorkel

The Safari Snorkel is delivered with excellent instructions with high quality installation drawings and a detailed part list. The instruction supplied here is more of a supplement to their process than a replacement.

The first step is to remove the passenger side wheel well flare, which allows removal of the inner fender liner. Use caution removing the flare as the small red and blue plastic snaps are fragile. They can be replaced at the dealership is damaged. Red Snaps TPN 90904-67036, Blue TPN 90904-67037

The instructions suggest removing the inner fender liner completely, but I found it easy to pull it down and out of the way for access. After pulling the fender liner down, disconnect the radio antennae from its lower mount, then unscrew the top mount allowing the antennae to be set out of the way in the back of the wheel well. Moving the antennae eases bolting the snorkel to the fender.
The next step is to tape the supplied template (part number 335-017-000) to the passenger fender. The top and left sides of the template line up directly with the hood and door gaps, with the template part number facing out.
Use a felt tipped pen and mark all of the punched holes in the template. I used a center punch, then 10mm drill to set a pilot hole at each position.
With the pilot holes drilled, I finished the mounting holes (3) with a 16mm drill. I deburred the holes using a chamfering bit and painted them with white touch-up paint.
Even though I have done several snorkel installs, drilling a 3 1/4" hole into the side of a brand new truck still takes some getting used to. The key to making a good hole is to apply even pressure (feed) and remove material at a slow drill RPM (speed). Always use a HSS drill for the centering bit, as carbide is too brittle for hole saw work.
Deburr the hole and paint to ensure no rust develops.
Take the three stainless steel mounting studs (8mm x 1.25mm x 25mm OAL, Part Number 000-110) and screw them into the snorkel body's threaded inserts.
Mount the pillar bracket to the snorkel using the supplied hex bolts (6mm x 1.0mm x 14mm, Part Number 000-002-100) and temporarily put the snorkel onto the truck and into position. Mark the trucks A-pillar at the mounting hole locations on the pillar bracket. Then remove the snorkel from the truck.
Using and 8mm drill bit, drill the three marked holes. It is critical that these holes be centered properly. Use a center punch to ensure alignment. Deburr holes and paint. Insert the plastic body clips (part number 000-960) into the holes and mount the pillar bracket to the truck using the 4.2mm x 13mm screw (part number 000-951).
Put the snorkel up to the truck and fasten the lower mounting stud using the supplied hardware. Mount the upper pillar bracket to the snorkel using the 6mm hex head bolts.
The snorkel is now in position and must be finished by fastening the top two studs to the trucks fender. This is the most challenging process of the install as you will need to fit washer and nuts to the studs way up in the fenderwell. If you have thin arms the job will be much less painful.

This step is the most critical in ensuring water tightness of the system. Remove the stock air ducting and air cleaner assembly and treat all connection points with a sensor safe sealant (like Permatex blue RTV silicon sealant, labeled sensor safe, part number 80022). Reassemble the stock air intake system, but do not remount the air entry tube just yet.

The next step requires some preparation, as the snorkels flexible air entry hose (part number 335-024-000) should be fitted with the supplied 70-90mm hose clamps (part number 000-908) with the clamps positioned so that they can be tightened when attached to the snorkel and Toyota intake tube. Attach the hose to the intake tube first but do not tighten, next attach the hose to the snorkel body. Re-mount the Toyota intake tube to its bracket at the top of the fender.

The last steps required are to reattach the radio antennae, reinstall the inner fender liner and reinstall the fender flare. The snorkel head should be fitted to the body and secured with the supplied black clamp (Part Number 000-914/B).

With that, the installation is complete!

As with all ARB supplied equipment, the quality and fitment is exceptional. The snorkel will increase noise slightly at the pillar, but not excessively. It is important to check your filter regularly, as the snorkel will allow bugs to accumulate in the airbox. I just use standard toyota air filters and change them every other oil change, or about 8,000 miles. Keep a spare filter with your tool kit. Having a snorkel is not a reason to take more risk at a water crossing than you would without one, but the extra protection is welcome!
Questions / Comments?